INTRODUCTION
Ruthvens Kingsnakes are slender snakes reaching an adult length of under 3 foot. The are typically black red black banded on a grey/cream background. Ruthven Kingsnakes are the most primitive of the Kingsnakes, and it has been suggested they are responsible for the evolution of several other species including mexicana, triangulum, pyromelena, and alterna. The first Albino mutation to surface in the Kings and Milks was a Ruthvens. Because of this close relationship they have been responsible for the introduction of the albino gene into many of the King & Milksnake species Albino Ruthvens are considered by many Kingsnake enthusiasts to be the most beautiful of all the Albino's. In shades of reds, oranges, yellows, whites & pinks they are truly a stunning animal. There striking beauty has made them more popular in the hobby than the wild or normal coloured animals.

COLOUR MUTATIONS

Albino Ruthvens Kingsnakes were the first tri-coloured kingsnakes to be produced in captivity. First bred by Steve and Karen Osborne of Professional Breeders USA from a heterozygous specimen from the original collection of wild caught specimens used to describe the species from Mesa Central type locality of Amealco, Queretaro, Mexico.

FOOD & WATER
In captivity these animals will eat a diet of mice. In the wild they feed on small lizards, small snakes, nestling birds & rodents. Hatchling Ruthvens Kingsnakes have a somewhat bad reputation for being picky feeders, preferring there first meal to be lizards rather than commercially raised rodents. This is not a problem if you buy your snake from a reputable breeder who has started the snake on rodents. As usually once they begin feeding on mice they will continue to do so with no problems.
Hatchlings can be fed every 3-4 days on pinkies, where as adults will only require feeding once a week on appropriate size mice. Fresh drinking water should be available at all times.

TEMPERAMENT

Hatchlings can be a bit nervous but soon calm down with handling and age.

TEMPERTURE

A thermal gradient with a hot spot of 84 degrees F and a cooler end in the mid 70's.

HOUSING

Ruthvens Kingsnakes should always be housed separately because of the cannibalistic qualities of these species.
Hatchling Ruthvens should be kept in a small container with a paper towel substrate, provided with a hide and fresh drinking water.
Adults & Juveniles can be housed in aquarium type enclosures, vivarium or a racking system, a general rule for deciding the size of a snakes home is length approximately equal to three quarters your snake's length. The cage's width should be about a third of your snake's length. A hide should be provided at both ends of the vivarium. Good husbandry and overall cleanliness are essential to your snakes general state of good health. If the enclosure is dirty, too wet or dry, or too hot or cold, this will cause skin or respitory problems or both.

SUBSTRATE

Hatchlings are best kept on paper towels.
Adults & Juveniles can be kept on a sterilized bark/wood chippings or aspen bedding, newspaper and paper towels are often used in racking systems but are not very pleasing to the eye when used in other forms of housing. Pine & Cedar shaving should never be used as these can be potentially dangerous to the snakes as they could digest some when they are being fed, and the fumes from the shavings can be toxic and could cause respitory problems.

HIBERNATION

To hibernate a your Ruthvens Kingsnake for the winter, make sure it has had no food for two weeks and that the temperature is normal during this time allowing the snake to fully digest it's last meal and empty it's guts. After this the temperature should be lowered gradually over a few weeks until its 55 F . The snake should not be fed during this period but fresh drinking water should be available at all times. After three months the snake can gradually be warmed up over a two week period and can then be offered food again. Most hobbyists hibernate there snakes from mid November to mid January.

BREEDING

After hibernation and approx 3 weeks into a normal eating pattern for the female they can be introduced to one another, males will sometimes not eat at this time being more interested in breeding than eating. Female Ruthvens should only be bred from if they are healthy and feeding well. A female that has eaten well from a hatchling may be sexually mature by 18 months of age. The female should be introduced into the males cage. Once several copulations have been witnessed or the female looks fatter mid body they should be separated. The female should be given a laying box. A plastic container big enough for her to coil loosely in, filled with damp sphagnum moss. She may refuse food during her pregnancy, or may only except smaller prey items than usual. Expect her to lay between 5-10 eggs any time between 5-14 days after she has shed. The eggs when they are laid should be removed to another container two thirds filled with damp vermiculite ( when a handful is squeezed in the palm of the hand only a small amount of water should be produced. ). Do not rotate the eggs, and don't unnecessarily handle them. The box should have a fitted lid, and the humidity inside should be 100%, some condensation will form on the lid if this is too much and is dripping on the eggs, the vermiculite is too wet and a little dry should be sprinkled over the surface to take up the moisture. I usually have the egg boxes ready in the incubator a few days before I expect her to lay, this way the vermiculite is at the right temperature and any mistakes made in making up the vermiculite mixture can be rectified. The eggs should be checked weekly removing the lid will give a good exchange of air. The Eggs should be incubated at 80-83 degrees F, expect them to hatch after 50-70 days. The female should be offered food after she has laid, although some will refuse until they have had there post laying shed. It is a good idea then to feed her twice a week on smaller prey items until she has recovered her weight lose.
The hatchlings emerge between 6-8 inches and should be housed separately. They will have there neonate shed 5-10 days after hatching, at which time you can begin to start feeding them. As mentioned above Ruthvens Kingsnakes can be difficult to start on rodents, if all attempts to get them to feed fail you may have to resort to other means. We have an article on feeding problematic hatchlings that you may find useful at this point.
It is not uncommon for female Ruthvens Kingsnakes to have two clutches of eggs per year, the second clutch is usually laid around the time when the first clutch is hatching. The second clutch is usually smaller than the first, if say 10 eggs were produced in the first clutch expect around 5-6 in the second.

 © Sue Knight 2002