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Not a beginners snake though a popular second snake. They don't
grow to a large size and are generally placid. They can be
tricky to feed at times and will undergo long periods of fasting.
Most Royal Pythons in captivity are originally sourced from
the south-western areas of Africa though their natural range
extends,sub-saharan, across to the Nile.
A fairly chunky short-tailed python. Colouration is a mixture
of brown, black and white with quite complex patterning. A
noticeable feature is their heat-detecting pits (or holes)
around their upper lip. Most individuals also show hind leg
remnants (spurs) sited on either side of their vent. Occasionally
individuals show a variance in brightness of colouration and
some true genetic colour types are available.
As a hatchling they are around 20-25cm (6-8ins) and weigh between
50-120gms. Adult females are generally longer and heavier than
males, perhaps reaching 1.8m (5.5ft) and 3.5-4kg (6-8lbs) at
the larger end of the scale.
Hatchlings can be reared in geo-flats, crystal tubs or similar.
An adult will have sufficient space in a vivarium 100x50x50
cms. Although a larger space with climbing branches will
definitely be appreciated by your python. Royals can be housed
together
however at some times of the year males will fight eachother,
Reliable feeding may be achieved more easily if they are
kept in individual vivariums.
All bulbs and heaters must be fitted with a mesh guard as royals
can and do burn themselves if given direct access to a heat
source.
The choice of substrate for the vivarium is dependent on your
own preference. Bark chippings, wood shavings, corncob, newspaper,
or natural wood cat litter are all absorbent and easy to maintain.
For hygiene reasons remove waste matter as soon as practicable,
this will also ensure that there are no unpleasant odours
from your vivarium. The entire substrate should be replaced
every few months or so.
The vivarium should be heated with a hot-spot at one end of
around 30 C (90F.) The heat source should be positioned at
the extreme end of the cage, allowing for a thermal gradient
between the two ends. Hide boxes on both the warm and cool
ends should be available to allow your python to hide away
and a water bowl large enough for the snake to soak in is
probably best placed somewhere in between the hide boxes.
Artificial and UV light are not required although daytime
lights can be effective, as long as the enclosure does not
overheat. At night the temperature should be kept as per the
day, unless a breeding season is being emulated in which case
a slight night time temperature drop is acceptable but should
not go under 25 C (75 F.) Humidity, easily achieved by light
misting with a hand spray, helps to keep the royals skin in
good condition and will be of use in assisting the snake to
cleanly shed its skin. Provide clean water at all times.
In the wild royals take a variety of prey including small
mammals and birds. In captivity they will accept a diet of
mice and rats, often reluctant feeders will show a preference
for gerbils. It is recommended that you get an idea of the
feeding history when you purchase the animal and that you
have access to suitable food items. Hatchlings should be offered
food every 6-8 days, adults every 10-14 days. Being heavy
bodied strong snakes they will eat relatively large food items,
hatchlings will quickly progress from fuzzy mice up through
to adult mice in their first year. Adult females will ultimately
be eating small adult rats, weaned rats being suitable for
adult males. (A set of scales weighing in at least 10g intervals
is a useful thing to have access to as royals can refuse food
for quite long periods of time (months!) and it is helpful
to be able to check if it is losing weight.)
Unlike temperate region snakes, royals must not be hibernated.
Most breeding successes seem to use a night-time temperature
drop to around 25 C (75 F) with full temperature being retained
in the daytime period. This is undertaken for 2-3 months usually
during our winter. Gradually turn the night-time temperature
down over a period of a couple of weeks. Once they are "cooled"
in this way most breeders then introduce two males together
to induce male combat. After a day in together place each
male in with a female and see if mating takes place. Mating
can last for up to 36 hours and is obvious to observe as the
snakes will coil their tails together. Only healthy snakes
should be cooled and used for breeding. In the spring raise
the night-time temperature back up to normal and feeding can
commence.
If mating has been successful, the female will eat well and
obviously gain bulk. She will also get herself into strange
positions in order to get heat to the developing eggs, "sunbathing"
on her back is fairly common. At some point around this time
a nest box should be placed in the vivarium, a plastic container
such as a large ice-cream tub lined with damp sphagnum moss
will suffice. Once the eggs have been laid the female will
tightly coil around them, though it is advisable to remove
the eggs into a plastic box with 100% humidity and a substrate
of moist vermiculite or perlite and kept at a constant temperature
of 30 C. (90 F.). The average number of eggs laid is around
5-6, they are about 100mm long, 60mm in diameter. Unlike bird's
eggs they must not be turned. The eggs are normally ivory
white and for most of the incubation period will be firm to
the touch, as hatching nears (after 55-65 days) they may become
slightly "baggy". When the juveniles arrive they
should be placed into individual warm humid containers with
a heat gradient as per the adults. They will slough after
about 10-14 days and should then be offered suitable food.
Sexual maturity can be reached at 3-5 years.
Copyright©2001 Portsmouth Reptile & Amphibian Society |
Royal Python or Ball Python Python regius
BREEDING