Amelanistic
The albino gene strips away all black pigmentation leaving us with a beautiful snake in shades of orange, yellow and white.

Hypomelanistic
The Hypomelanistic gene diminishes the amount of black pigment

Anerythristic
The Anerythristic gene strips away the red pigments, the Anerythristic Junglecorn is shades of grey, black & white.

Snow
A combination of the Amelanistic & Anerythristic gene, snow junglecorns are shades of lilac, pinks & white.

Striped
the typical blotched pattern is replaced with two stripes running down the back.

Motley
is a simple recessive mutation. Motley corns can have either an almost striped dorsal pattern or a series of irregular blotches.

Aberrant
blotches & stripes

FOOD & WATER

Junglecorns can be maintained on a diet of rodents. As with all reptiles a supply of fresh drinking water is a must.

TEMPERAMENT

Non-aggressive

TEMPERTURE

A thermal gradient with a hot spot of 84 degrees F and a cooler end in the mid 70's.

HOUSING

Junglecorns should be kept separately because of the inherited tendency towards cannibalism.
Hatchling Junglecorns should be kept in a small container with a paper towel substrate, provided with a hide and fresh drinking water.
Adults & Juveniles can be housed in aquarium type enclosures, vivarium or a racking system, a general rule for deciding the size of a snakes home is length approximately equal to three quarters your snake's length. The cage's width should be about a third of your snake's length. A hide should be provided at both ends of the vivarium. Good husbandry and overall cleanliness are essential to your Junglecorns general state of good health. If the enclosure is dirty, too wet or dry, or too hot or cold, this will cause skin or respitory problems or both.

SUBSTRATE

Hatchlings are best kept on paper towels.
Adults & Juveniles can be kept on a sterilized bark/wood chippings or aspen bedding, newspaper and paper towels are often used in racking systems but are not very pleasing to the eye when used in other forms of housing. Pine & Cedar shaving should never be used as these can be potentially dangerous to the snakes as they could digest some when they are being fed, and the fumes from the shavings can be toxic and could cause respitory problems. ( See Article on Respiratory toxicity of cedar and pine wood http://www.trifl.org/cedar.html )

HIBERNATION

To hibernate a Junglecorn for the winter, make sure it has had no food for two weeks and that the temperature is normal during this time allowing the snake to fully digest it's last meal and empty it's guts. After this the temperature should be lowered gradually over a few weeks until its 55-60 degree F . The snake should not be fed during this period but fresh drinking water should be available at all times. After 10-12 weeks the snake can gradually be warmed up over a two-week period and can then be offered food again.

BREEDING

After hibernation the female will enter a shed once she has gone through this process she will be ready to breed Female Junglecorns should only be bred from if they are healthy and feeding well. A female that has eaten well from a hatchling may be sexually mature by 18 months of age. The female should be introduced into the males cage. . Males will sometimes not eat at this time being more interested in breeding than eating. Courtship is quite intense, and the male shows typical Kingsnake behavior at this time, restraining the female by biting her on the back of the neck, not something usually witnessed with cornsnakes. Pairing lasts anything up to several hours. I personally keep the pair together for approx three weeks to ensure good fertility. You may consider it more favorable to introduce the female several times through out the breeding season, if you are worried that she may eat him. I have not experienced any problems with cannibalism in the breeding season. That's not to say that you won't! Once several copulations have been witnessed or the female looks fatter mid body they should be separated. The female should be given a laying box. A plastic container big enough for her to coil loosely in filled with damp sphagnum moss. She may refuse food during her pregnancy, or may only except smaller prey items than usual. Expect her to lay her eggs from 5-14 days after she has shed. The eggs, which could number between 5 and 30, should be removed to another container two thirds filled with damp vermiculite (when a handful is squeezed in the palm of the hand only a small amount of water should be produced.). Do not rotate the eggs, and don't unnecessarily handle them. The box should have a fitted lid, and the humidity inside should be 100%, some condensation will form on the lid if this is too much and is dripping on the eggs, the vermiculite is too wet and a little dry should be sprinkled over the surface to take up the moisture. I usually have the egg boxes ready in the incubator a few days before I expect her to lay, this way the vermiculite is at the right temperature and any mistakes made in making up the vermiculite mixture can be rectified. The eggs should be checked weekly removing the lid will give a good exchange of air. The Eggs should be incubated at 80-83 degrees F, expect them to hatch after 52-66 days. The female should be offered food after she has laid, although some will refuse until they have had there post laying shed. It is a good idea then to feed her twice a week on smaller prey items until she has recovered her weight lose.
The hatchlings should be housed separately, and should start eating pinkie mice after their neonate shed which will occur anywhere from 5-10 days from leaving their egg.


© Sue Knight 2002